If you don't take practicality into account when starting a knitting project, you are doing yourself (and your wardrobe!) Back in the original comments, Dianna had uncovered a men’s fashion blog that had posited that DDL’s had come from Flamborough Marine, purveyors of handknit ganseys, and they do offer a version called, you guessed it, the Staithes Gansey. Many regions had their own stitch designs which were also incorporated into their sweaters. The Gansey knitters carefully considered how they could knit these sweaters into high-performing pieces of workwear. Do you hate the feeling of the cold air up your sleeves? A gansey (or guernsey) is a hardwearing, hand knitted, woolen sweater, which has been worn by fishermen around the coast of Britain for many years and whose style is still processed today in everyday fashion. In the spirit of the release of the 25th anniversary edition of Knitting Ganseys, let’s take a quick look at what makes these two types of traditional knitting unique. A Gansey sweater is a hard-wearing, seamless sweater worn by Fishermen who spent their days at sea. Circling back about the origins of DDL’s gansey, I’ve gotten some answers. P.S. The Gansey (or Guernsey) sweater is a hard-wearing, seamless sweater worn by Fishermen who spent their days at sea. The yarn contributed to the long life of the sweater and made the sweater more wind and water-resistant, but it sure didn’t add to the wearer’s comfort! The latter was worn on occasions or as Sunday attire. Many of the fishing communities lived in isolated areas, meaning that they had no choice but to be self-sufficient. Do you wear gansey sweaters? Learn by doing: Knit along with Beth with step-by-step instruction and demonstration of a doll-sized sampler sweater. Most of the time the patterns for these sweaters are passed down through the generations not through written word but through memorization. The patterning on the back and front and sometimes the upper part of the sleeve, which characterizes the style, provides an extra layer of protection. Newer versions became more complex, as the stitch patterns became more intricate. In which color do you prefer them? In many cases, the fisherman's initials were stitched into the sweater. Generally, looking at the gansey styles, there are two types of this sweater: one is a “working” gansey and the other is a “finer” type. The Guernsey’s knitting industry can be dated back to the late 15th century when a royal grant was obtained to import wool from England and re-export knitted goods to Normandy and Spain. I'd love to hear about ways that you make your own knitted garments more practical. Their tough style with a soft twist is enjoyed by many as they make great autumn or winter pieces. The Gansey? * The wool from which gansey jumers are made is knitted very tightly, with the purpose of “turning water”. The island has a long history, dating back many centuries. I'm fascinated by the history of the gansey sweater because it exemplifies exactly how I feel about knitting a more wearable wardrobe. The inspiration for this sweater comes from rich textural effects found in gansey sweaters. This yarn was knitted tightly to ensure that the sweater was not only warm but water and wind resistant too. Attire Club The fine ganseys were often made by women who were going to get married, and who wanted to show society who they were through the style and workmanship they put in their fiancées’ sweaters. The chapters lead the knitter through the components of a gansey sweater with instructions for knitting a miniature "sampler" sweater to practice the steps. The design of a classic gansey sweater could vary from a very simple "working" garment to something more elaborate that would be worn for special occasions, such as church. It took an average of 84 hours to complete a sweater – more elaborate styles took more, while designs that were simpler, took rather less. FISHER LASSIE is a cardigan version of the gansey sweaters often worn by the 19th century fishermen of British coastline communities. Guernsey is one of the Channel Islands in the English Channel near the French coast, and is a self-governing British Crown dependency. Using a tightly spun 5-ply worsted wool (popularly known as "Seamen's Iron") the intricately patterned Gansey is … While there are those who can spot the differences between the two sweaters from a mile away, it can be easy to confuse the two traditional knitting styles. New York had the highest population of Gansey families in 1840. A guernsey, or gansey, is a seaman's knitted woollen sweater, similar to a jersey, which originated in the Channel Island of the same name, sometimes known as a knit-frock in Cornwall, especially Polperro. Is it a gansey or an aran? "Gansey miraculously survived this encounter—though it left him traumatized—and it sparked his intense desire to find the ancient Welsh k… Whilst this is a charming decorative detail, some say that this was to help identify the body should the fisherman fall victim to the sea. It originates from the Island of Guernsey, where it was developed over 400 years ago. A gansey is usually knit with a hard-wearing dark blue yarn with a very tight twist. The gansey sweater is a great example of how an item charged with practicality and symbolism became a fashion staple that is a clear reference to an old, rough past. The lack of seams leads to a greater impermeability and strength; the underarm gusset allows the wearer freedom of movement. After that I wanted the real thing and switched to 2.25mm needles and guernsey 5-ply yarn. In Cornwall alone, twenty-four principal patterns have been identified, each one drawing inspiration from ropes, chains, waves, nets and sand-prints. Growing up with Gansey knitters, a child would start on small items, e.g. In time, the different communities that adapted the gansey around the British Isles developed their own gansesys, which were all based on the original pattern. Making ganseys was also a business, as many families supplemented their incomes by making these jumpers. The inspiration for this sweater comes from rich textural effects found in gansey sweaters. In 1840 there were 3 Gansey families living in New York. Stop knitting with it and choose something that you feel comfortable wearing. In some designs, seam stitches were simulated, however, they were purely aesthetic. It is an East Riding corruption of Guernsey. Share your feedback, questions or thoughts in the comments below! Its fine texture has been known to “resist sunshine, salt water, and biting winds”. Liev Arts Here, I used: double moss stitch, diamonds, ladder stitch and moss stitch. The gansey came into being as a garment for fishermen who required a warm, hard-wearing, yet comfortable item of clothing that would resist the sea spray. Have you ever knitted something only to find that it is not very practical? Fishing sweaters spread widely and many other countries adapted them. The Gansey family name was found in the USA, the UK, and Scotland between 1840 and 1920. Sweaters were knitted in the round. I hate knitting swatches – it feels like time wasted when I could be knitting a gansey! The Gansey (or Guernsey) sweater is a hard-wearing, seamless sweater worn by Fishermen who spent their days at sea. The silhouette was boxy with dropped shoulders and a square stand-up collar. A traditional Aran Jumper usually is off-white in colour, with cable patterns on the body and sleeves. And if you're interested in learning more about knitting traditional Gansey sweaters from various regions, Gladys Thompson's Patterns for Guernseys, Jerseys & Arans is extremely interesting. These stitch patterns were inspired by everyday objects that the fisherman would observe at sea, such as rope, netting and ladders. Gansey pullovers are made from a tightly spun 5-ply worsted wool (popularly known as “Seamen’s Iron”), which is knitted in one piece on five steel needles. Rilo, Free Knitting Pattern, Hat, Cable Knitting, Gladys Thompson's Patterns for Guernseys, Jerseys & Arans. Then, you'll know how disappointing it feels. The Industry was lead by Cornish fisher wives. Often, gussets were added under the arms for greater ease of movement when working on the boat. Gansey sweater is worked sideways, Back and … For the same reason, some Gansey sweater designs feature split, straight welts at the hem rather than ribs. Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email. : A Gansey is a distinctive woollen sweater, originally designed to provide protection for fishermen from wind and water but which is ideal for all outdoor activity. The texture stands out against solid color and a variety of stitches maintain the crocheter’s interest throughout the project. Knitting Ganseys is a well-organized, attractive, and practical guide to knitting gansey sweaters. When outgrown, the garments were either passed down or refashioned to fit smaller members of the family. The original sweater styles, with a “diamond” insert at the underarm for ease of movement, were worn primarily by Guernsey’s fisherman, the jumper later became popular throughout coastal Britain where each seafarer wore a “Gansey”. Make your knits slightly cropped to flatter this silhouette. The gansey was the utility garment of the fishing workforce. At the same time, the lower sleeves where most wear is sustained, are left plain so the worn part can be unravelled and re-knitted, which makes the sweater very long-lasting. Although basically a working garment it was also an acceptable and respectable form of dress for Sundays and special occasions. See below for the button to click to purchase the digital, downloadable version of this DVD. InCompany by Attire Club Bringing you Attire Club for free takes hundreds of hours each month. It all began with Gansey sweaters. Ganseys come today in almost all colors and styles, which makes them even better. We want to hear from you! I tried the "double wool" cast on, but find the way that it spreads unsightly. a big disservice. But all experienced knitters swear by them, and they’re kinda right. Used in coastal England (and also in some countries across the North Sea) in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, gansey wool is a worsted-spun, high-twist sportweight yarn constructed of five plies. Sweaters were often knitted by Fishermen's wives (or prospective wives) to protect their husbands from the ruthless conditions at sea. The Aran jumper (Irish: Geansaí Árann) is a style of jumper that takes its name from the Aran Islands off the west coast of Ireland. Traditionally, Ganseys are knitted from 5 ply wool in a deep navy colour, naturally dyed from Indigo. When you knit your own clothing, you have a fantastic opportunity to customise them to your own personal requirements. The most Gansey families were found in the USA in 1880. Guernsey Woollens Ltd. manufactures and sells authentic Guernsey Jumpers from right here in the Channel Islands using a careful blend of traditional methods. Fraquoh and Franchomme, © Yes, that is very specific. The gansey sweater was a garment developed on this island and became a staple of fishermen, as they required a hard-wearing, warm and comfortable garment that would withstand the spray of the sea. The work style was simpler in design, as it was supposed to be practical and to use little materials (in the past, materials were a lot rougher and heavier than today, so adding too much bulk to a piece would result in a really impractical garment). In searching for the perfect gansey yarn, the type of yarn traditionally used in these hardy fishermen’s sweaters is relatively rare. Between approximately 1875 and 1950, Dutch fishermen wore sweaters with characteristic knit and purl stitch patterns, sometimes cable. They served two purposes. What would your stitches look like? These jerseys, known as ganseys, became and intrinsic part of the identity of the Dutchmen who wore them, and their daily lives as fishermen. what a delight to find others interested in these wonderful designs–now, retired, i have more time to use what i have collected over the past yrs. I think I need a bit of practice to get the balance right on the panelling too! My first knitting project was a gansey-inspired chunky sweater. A gansey (or guernsey) is a hardwearing, hand knitted, woolen sweater, which has been worn by fishermen around the coast of Britain for many years and whose style is still processed today in everyday fashion. For more articles on style, fashion tips and cultural insights, you can subscribe to Attire Club via e-mail or follow us on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram! As a fun fact, ganseys that were made for children were made larger, so that the child can grow up and wear the same pullover. Local women then altered the sweater and began knitting an all-over pattern. Thus, wool from England started to be brought to the island where it was turned to knitted goods that were then exported to Normandy and Spain. P.S. The effort was in many cases worth it; as such a sweater would last for decades and was even passed down through generations. Make your sweaters cuffs more fitted. Parts of the sweaters were unravelled and mended when needed meaning that the colour of the indigo could vary wildly in one garment as parts of the fabric aged. This makes in many ways gansey sweaters a part of the cultural heritage of the British Isles. A Gansey was normally knitted in blue and white in distinctive patterns. Post was not sent - check your email addresses! History of the Sweater. Do you find pure wool itchy? Does your wardrobe mainly comprise of high-waisted skirts and trousers? To find the ancestor of the Aran sweater, we travel not to the windswept Aran islands of Galway Bay, but 400 miles South-East… to the Channel Islands, and Guernsey in particular. The historical information is a nice bonus and the full patterns are inviting. Because the pattern is the same on both sides, the gansey is reversible, so that parts which come in for heavier wear, such as the elbows, can be alternated. Visible mending at it's finest! The gansey dates from the end of the 18th century and is closely associated with fishermen and sailors. As a ten year old child, Gansey — who has a deadly allergy to wasps — stumbled across a nest of them in the woods outside of the home of a family friend. They are indeed really amazing pieces that, if they fit well, add structure to a man’s look. Stylewise, ganseys are very versatile pieces: you can wear them with dress pants or with jeans, you can wear them with a coat or throw on a sporty vest when taking a hike. Guernsey is one of the Channel Islands in the English Channel near the French coast, and is a self-governing British Crown dependency. From the author of the classic best-selling book on Gansey knitting, this DVD provides an introduction to the tradition of this elegant, practical sweater. These smarter sweaters featured much more stitch patterning than their working counterparts. Sleeves are worked separately from bottom up. The guernsey is the mainstay of Guernsey's knitting industry which can be dated back to the late 15th century when a royal grant was obtained to import wool from England and re-export knitted goods to Normandyand Spain. See more ideas about knitting, fisherman sweater, knitting patterns. It features the distinctive stitch patterning of that era but incorporates modern styling, fit and elegant construction techniques. Gansey sweater is worked sideways, Back and Front separately. Then she herself might marry and … 2021 Attire Club by Fraquoh and Franchomme, The complete men's style, fashion and lifestyle experience. This was about 60% of all the recorded Gansey's in the USA. Gansey sweaters were traditionally knitted by the fishermen’s wives and the pattern was passed down from mother to daughter through the generations. Apparently, the most complex style appeared in the Scottish fishing villages. The navy sweater is a familiar sight and is worn not only as a tradition, but also for the quality of the knitted fabric. Today, they have entered in the fashion world as well and are worn by many men (and women alike), not just by sailors. Each style has its own name and particularities. They were also knitted for their children. : A Gansey is a distinctive woollen sweater, originally designed to provide protection for fishermen from wind and water but which is ideal for all outdoor activity. Learn how your comment data is processed. Please share them in the comments section below! He was viciously attacked, but, as he lay dying, he heard the words: "You will live because of Glendower. The end results were extremely successful and have stood the test of time. Gansey sweaters were knitted by the wives for their husbands. If you find useful information and stimulation here, we would appreciate a donation of your choosing that will allow us to continue to expand and enhance our concept. Find out about the fascinating history of these sweaters... A gansey (or guernsey) is a hardwearing, hand knitted, woollen jumper which has been worn by fishermen around the coast of … Image Source: Flamborough Marine Gansey History. The texture stands out against solid color and a variety of stitches maintain the crocheter’s interest throughout the project. Moreover, the combination of seamless construction, fine wool and tight knitting resulted in a garment that is simultaneously wind and waterproof. Indeed, each part of the garment is designed with practicality in mind. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. My first attempt at a traditional Gansey stitch layout. The trims were designed to be very snug in order to keep out the winter cold, whilst the cuffs were knitted shorter than usual to stop them being soaked with sea water. As a hand knitter, you have the incredible opportunity to tailor your garments to your own requirements too. Our Guernsey Jumpers are derived from the traditional sweaters developed in Guernsey in the 17th century. The patterning across the chest and back serves not just a stylistic purpose, but it provides extra insulation as well. ... was adapted from the gansey sweaters brought by fisherman brought in to help improve the local fishing industry. 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